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filler@godaddy.com
Signed in as:
filler@godaddy.com
The ELR series brakes can be installed and removed without tools. The self-locking rear compression nut will hold the brake firmly in place with only firm hand pressure. A crescent wrench can be used to firmly lock the brake in place as well. My ELR line is especially beneficial when frequent removal of your muzzle brake is required such as with suppressor mounting. You can switch back and forth with your direct thread suppressor on the fly, in the field, with no special tools. The brake stays together as a single unit so there are no small or multiple parts to keep track of. Just stow and go.
(On models with small port holes, the port holes should be oriented in the top, 12 O-clock position.)
Step 1. Twist rear locking nut onto the brake finger tight until it seats lightly and fully onto the brake.
Step 2. Thread the assembled brake onto the barrel as a unit until it makes light contact with the barrel.
Step 3. Unscrew the brake and locking nut as a unit until you reach proper clocking of the ports.
(Generally this will be less than one revolution. Due to different barrel manufacturer clocking, your results may vary.)
Step 4. Hold the brake section firmly once in proper timed position.
Step 5. Un-thread the nut section toward the barrel until it is seated against the barrel and tighten down.
Step 6. Double check port alignment, repeat steps 3-5 if position adjustment is needed.
The installation is now complete.
If you feel it is needed for extra torque on the brake, use a crescent wrench or other smooth jawed pliers on the flats of the rear locking piece. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN. Only a little firm pressure is needed.
To uninstall, simply twist the locking nut towards the brake end away from the barrel until it makes light contact with the brake section. Un-screw the brake from the firearm. The brake and nut will come off as a complete unit.
Do not use tools or rods to tighten or untighten the brake thru the muzzle brake port(s). There should never be a need for it. You will damage the finish or, potentially the brake. The brake will remain firmly in place with firm, hand tight pressure. If for some reason the brake gets excessively tightened down, use a crescent wrench or other smooth jawed pliers on the flats of the rear locking piece to aid in removal.
General maintenance is always a good idea by adding a drop of oil to the threads of both sections periodically to keep everything running correctly. But only needed if you notice the threads are dry. The brake comes delivered with a light coat of oil on the threads and should last for dozens of switch outs.